LIFE: 10 things you should know before going to Myanmar

taken by the Inle Lake

1. They only accept new, clean and unfolded US dollar bills or Burmese kyat.

2. You can't exchange other currencies in Myanmar except for brand new US dollar bills. So bring enough of those before your arrival.

3. Tourism is new so hostels or dorms aren't common yet. Expect to pay at least 20 US $ for a room if you travel alone.

4. Learn at least these two words - ming-guh-la-ba (hello) and - chay-zu-ting-ba-deh (thank you).

5. You should know how to ride a bicycle if you want to save on transportation.

6. The driver sits on the right and drives on the right. Yes, it makes no sence - but true story.

7. Don't think they spit blood (as I thought they do) when you see red stains on the streets. They chew beetle nuts and spit them out afterwards. I guess it's like Swedish snus but it's supposed to be good for the teeth - well it doesn't seem like.

8. Don't be shy having conversations with locals due to their couriosity since touism and foreigners aren't that common yet.

9. Don't be too distrustful when strangers approach you. Either they just want to talk to foreigners or they want to help you.

10. When drivers hoop at you, you shouldn't feel bothered. This is actually a polite gesture they do to let you be aware of them overtaking you. I know this is weird. But even people on bicycles would do so even if there's massive space between you. 

- AJ -

PEOPLE: "The Wolfpack". Nuangshwe, Myanmar

Sorry for putting the focus on the background...

 Max (25), Frederic (25), Sebastian (26), travelers from Heidelberg, Germany

Why did you come to Myanmar?

- We wanted to travel through a country which is becoming more open towards tourism and we wanted to discover a country which partly ist still untouched ground.

Were your expectations of Myanmar fulfilled?

- Well, we didn't expect the people in this country to be so friendly in such an open and helpful way and that traveling through this country would be that easy and procarious.

What were the three best things about Myanmar?

- The kindness of the people, the authenticity of the country due to scanty tourism and the variety of Asian dishes.

What were the three worst things about Myanmar?

- That everything closes at 10 pm, the Burmese pop music and that they mix whiskey with beer.

What do you advise other travelers to do when they visit Myanmar?

- They should definitely take their time discovering the country and they should take part in their culture (e.g. like having a chat and eating their local food).

Where do you see yourself in 10 years?

- ... alive.

Thank you!

PLACES: Myanmar - Inle Lake

If you havn't been to the Inle Lake then you havn't been to Myanmar. This was definitely the most beautiful and exciting place I've been to since I arrived here. I only knew about Inle Lake from Lonely Planet thinking it would be such an incredible place that I would probably never reach. But it was easier than I thought it would be. I took the early bus from Nyaung U to Nuangshwe (Oh I will never learn how to pronounce these names) and met three funny guys from Germany, had a lot of fun and spend a whole day together discovering the beauty of Inle Lake.... and tried beetle nut.

- AJ -

PLACES: Myanmar - Bagan (Nyaung U)

If you're planning to go to Bagan you should know that Bagan is an area full of temples not a village as many people think. So if someone asks you where you're staying you should decide in which village you want to stay - New Bagan, Old Bagan or Nyaung U. If you're looking for "low budget" (min. 20$ per room) accommodations you should stay at Nyaung U which I think is the village where there is most going on and where there are most individual travelers.

You can go there by night bus from Yangon as I described in "The night bus experience". 

Just plan to spend 2-3 days there which is just fine. I went there during high season so spending the whole day outside was impossible cause the temperature went almost until 40 degrees. I tried to wake up early in the morning to catch the sunrise by the temples where you can easily go by bicycle from Nyaung U to avoid the horrible midday heat. Then when coming back before 12 pm I just took a nap recapturing the rest of my daily sleep and woke up again for lunch time. Beeing completly alone in Nyaung U wasn't that easy even though I was traveling by myself. I never knew getting into a chat with other solo backpackers would be so easy during eating time which was very delightful. When sitting alone at a table there is always someone else sitting alone and automatically you start talking.

A must-to-do in Nyaung U is definitely to rent a bicycle and pass by the temples on your way to Old Bagan, either during sunrise or sunset, visit the village market and try some local food. 

This is the perfect place if you want to get to a laid-back relaxing village

- AJ -

LIFE: Myanmar - The night bus experience

I didn't even know that Bagan exists one week before my arrival so while roaming around Yangon I read about Bagan once in a while and decided to go there.

Well, it wasn't that kind of excitement I had when going there like the feeling I had on my way to Kuala Lumpur or other areas. Probably because hardly anyone knows where Bagan is. When I read that this area is known for it's amazing temple sites, pagodas and beautiful sun rises I just thought "man I'm tired of temples and pagodas!". So actually the main reason why I came here was just because I was fed up with big cities and just wanted to calm down in a peaceful village. After an 8 hour ride with the night bus from Yangon to Nyaung U you arrive at the main bus station and can go by horse cart... yes, a pretty old-fashioned horse cart to your hotel. Horse carts are really a normal way of transportation over here. It can be a bit bumpy and awkward but it's definitely a must-to-do in Myanmar!

There are only night busses from Yangon to Bagan but I would rather call them "night" busses or probably even Burmese party busses. The departure time is at around 7 pm and once everyone is on the bus and you slowly head to the high way (do not imagine their "high way" to be like at home) they would play a couple of really strange Burmese kind of pop/ rap songs (while colored disco lights are blinking on the ceiling) and then there's a short introduction in Burmese and English (definitely the funniest version of both) and then when you think you can finally get the sleep you've been craving for since hourse they start playing a Burmese sit-com or stand-up comedy show on the flat screen until late at night with its volume so hight that even the speakers sound like they're gonna give up any moment. Don't expect others sleeping. No you'll probably be sitting in the bus as the only foreigner not understanding a single word and everyone else around you would be laughing probably even louder than the actual show. 

When sleeping time comes and they've actually turned of all noises and lights (at about 11.30 pm) you finally get some rest. You've almost fallen a sleep and then OF COURSE you'll be waken up because it's time for a break at about 1 am and everyone has to get out of the bus for 30 min. After the break you think "Yes, NOW I'll get my sleep" - No, you won't cause you will be riding the bus for only 2 more hours and then you've already reached Nyaung U and they'll let you out at the bus station at around 3 am. YES, 3 am!! I mean what the hell do you do in an old, really cold village at 3 am when check-in time starts at 12 pm?? When I arrived at my hotel (by horse cart. Haha I still think this is hilarious) the guy told me "Check-in is at 12 but you can leave your backpack here" What??! I can leave my backpack at the hotel? And what about me?! So I asked if I could just wait inside and then he even offered me a matress on the floor to have some sleep until it got bright. And THEN I finally got my sleep (well only three hours on a thin matress on the floor).

So if ever you plan to take the "night" bus in Myanmar you should either learn Burmese to understand the obviously hilarious tv-shows or you should have a nap before you leave.

-AJ-

PEOPLE: Darinne. Yangon, Myanmar

Darinne (30), NGO-worker from Seoul, South Korea

 1. Why did you come to Myanmar?

- I didn't know much about Myanmar so it was like a hidden treasure for me. I saw it as a challenge which made me want to come here.

2. What do you like most about Yangon?

- My job and the people I work with.

3. What don't you like about Myanmar?

- Through the rapid changes the city is going through the people have become less friendly as they were three years ago when I came here.

4. What would you advise travelers to do when they come to Yangon?

- They should visit the Shwedagon and go to the gallery downtown to meet other foreigners to travel with.

5. What are the three most important things in your life?

- My life-changing trip to India when I was 20, my job as an NGO-Worker and all the people I met who changed my life.

6. Where do you see yourself in 10 years?

-By that time I would like to have had 10 years of working experience in Africa or the Middle East. I would have a partner who would be living in a different country taking care of our daughter but we would be skyping regularly

- On the other side I would also like to publish a book beause I love to write and I've always been dreaming of my own performance of modern dance on a stage because I think dancing is the most beautiful kind of art and I love to dance.

Thank you!

PLACES: Myanmar - Yangon

Yangon is THE place if you like big, busy, chaotic cities. It's again typical Asian with areas full of foreigners, expats and an american athmosphere (especially because you can pay with US$) and on the other side there are areas where locals stare at you like you're an alian selling food by the street walking around bare foot and chewing beetle nuts and spitting everywhere. It's a bit difficult to get used to these cultural contrasts in this city which has rapidly changed. Forget the prices in Lonely Planet and adjust to minimum the double of what that travel guide says (Lonely Planet, please publish a new Book about Myanmar!!). The best way to get around is by taxi or foot. Don't forget to bargain, try to get down to 1000 Kyat lesser and you've got the fair price. Be aware of beeing charged more money than locals because you are a foreigner. If you want to get around with the circle train you can do that aswell. Although I havn't tried it, it's supposed to be veeeery sloooow. So only take it if you are not in a rush. 

Looking for a cheap (I'm talking about cheap as in Thailand) hostel is almost impossible. There are no hostels, only guest houses or hotels (don't stay at a fancy hotel or do group tours, you will just support the government not the locals. Travel individually!!). I only know of the Okinawa Guest House in Chinatown that charges 8 US$ per night for the cheapest room. Or if you want to save your money and get to learn local people you should try out Couchsurfing. YES, Couchsurfing is not only possible in cities like Berlin or Barcelona, there are also Couchsurfers in Myanmar, believe it or not. So that's what I did and it was the best idea ever. Living in downtown where all the accommodations and touristic sights are is very convinient, I agree with that. But living outside of downtown in a local area can be so much more interesting and people are more curious to make friends with you and want to know why the hell there's a foreigner in their district. Don't be shy and just talk and make friends. Burmese people are so friendly and open and they do speak a bit english, so communication is not a problem. Add them on Facebook, exchanged e-mail addresses and you've made their day. 

I stayed in Yangon for two days which was just right. I'm not really into big cities especially not at that moment due to three full days in Kuala Lumpur before Yangon. 

Visit the Shwedagon temple, walk around downtown, spend some time in a Burmese tea house and have a drink in the northern part of the city when evening comes. 

- AJ -